![]() Altogether, ZENITH watches have become an enduring symbol of chronograph design and engineering. The first El Primero caliber was born in a game-changing era for watches, with its name meaning "the first." The El Primero’s ethos of invention continued into design with one of the most subtle, comfortable and well-proportioned cases of the era, along with a dial that still feels extraordinary more than 50 years on. The current Chronomaster collection is comprised of four lines: Original, Revival, Open, and Sport. Chrono24 Buyer Protection Has You Covered. The satin-brushed 316L stainless steel case keeps a shorter lug profile like the vintage models, while the bi-directional bezel has been. The result is a refreshed look that is rooted in ZENITH’s rich history. 03.3201.3600/18.M3200 HODINKEE LIMITED EDITION 13,500. This time the vintage 36.5mm Antarctic Diver introduced as Nivada Grenchen's first diver in the late 1950s has been upsized to a more modern 38mm wide by 12.9mm thick with 200m water resistance. It is limited to 300 pieces, and exclusively available through the Hodinkee shop and Zenith’s online boutique. This collaborative edition is exclusively available on the online Hodinkee Shop and ZENITH online boutiques around the world.Īs the leading destination for all things watches and horology, Hodinkee’s appreciation of both ZENITH’s 1969 release of the first fully integrated automatic chronograph movement, along with their Chronomaster Original line that was unveiled last year with the latest generation of the seminal calibre featuring 1/10th of a second measurement, inspired this partnership. The Zenith Chronomaster Original for Hodinkee comes on the familiar three-link stainless steel bracelet with a brushed and polished finish and is fitted to a double folding buckle. ![]() The first limited style in the Chronomaster Original line, its late 1960’s-era aesthetic is modernized just enough with the powerful El Primero 3600 automatic 1/10th of a second chronograph caliber inside and an unprecedented opaline salmon dial with counters in three shades of grey. ![]() A celebration of an innovative legacy, The Zenith Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee reinterprets the modern chronograph iconic in unexpected hues. Certainly, from an engineering standpoint, the two watches use significantly different movements, although what they do have in common is that both the Zenith 3600 and the Rolex 4130 are very much pieces of contemporary, high-tech mechanical horology.Hodinkee and ZENITH are joining forces once again on a new iteration of the legendary ZENITH El Primero. Whether or not the resemblance bugs you is a matter of taste – I suspect some folks will be put off by it, although considering a modified El Primero movement was used by Rolex for the first self-winding Daytonas, I'd propose that Zenith is, to some extent, entitled by history if nothing else to connect the dots a little. The color and the way the ceramic reflects the light on the Chronomaster Sport is insistently reminiscent of the Daytona bezel, but the typeface and function are quite different – the Daytona has a tachymetric scale and the Chronomaster Sport, graduations for reading off tenths and hundredths of a second. Zenith has used ceramic bezels before in the Chronomaster line, but as far as I have been able to determine, just on the two 50th Anniversary limited edition models (which were also launch platforms for the caliber 3600). I think what makes the resemblance seem so strong at first glance is the ceramic bezel. Zenith has gotten around this problem partly by using low-inertia silicon for the escape wheel, but a lot of the mitigation comes from customization of the driving and coupling wheels, each of which has a unique profile for the gear teeth. The amount of energy available is even less than at the fourth wheel, and adding the load of driving the chronograph is potentially even more problematic. The problem is even worse if you try to drive the chronograph off the escape wheel. Balance amplitude can drop significantly when a chronograph is switched on, and if the watch isn't in optimum condition, accuracy can suffer if you leave the chronograph on for long enough. Driving a chronograph from the fourth wheel is already kind of pushing it it's the last conventional wheel in the going train, and stealing energy from the gears at that point means less energy is available to reach the balance. Zenith has enjoyed a reputation as one of the few genuine movement manufacturers in Switzerland long before the current industry trend of vertical integration. The reason you don't usually see chronographs driven by the escape wheel is that, generally, it's a terrible idea to try.
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